Around the Old City

A walk around the old city of Junagadh will take you to many places worth visiting.

The tombs of the Babi Nawabs, including the first Nawab of Junagadh, who made the princely state independent from the Mughals in 1748, have interesting designs, and though somewhat poorly maintained, are still worth seeing. Far more spectacular, however, are the Maqbaras from later in the Babi period, built over the grave of Nawab Mahabat Khan II. The awe-inspiring architecture mixes Moorish, Hindu and European influences with an exquisite eye for detail. The Maqbaras are not to be missed.

The Junagadh Museum, open from 9am-12pm and 3pm-6pm every day except Wednesday, houses prehistoric stone and bone implements, 9th-century stone carvings and many bronzes, manuscripts, silverwork, glass crafts, woodcarvings, textiles and other items from the history of the area.

Next door is the Sakkarbaug Zoo, open from 9am-6:30pm (closed on Wednesday, like the museum), which is known for its conservation and captive breeding program for the Asiatic Lion, found in the wild in nearby Gir National Park. Entry to the zoo is Rs.10/- for Indians, Rs.50/- for Foreigners.

The Darbar Hall Museum, open from 9am-12:15pm and 3pm-6pm (closed Wednesday and the 2nd and 4th Saturdays of the month), exhibits the era of the Babis of Junagadh, with lavish furniture, thrones, textiles, arms, portraits and photographs from the period.

Badshah-no-Hajiro

The tomb of Ahmed Shah the founder of Ahmedabad is called Badshah-no-Hajiro.It is located just outside the east gate of Jama Masjid. It is square in shape with porticos on each side and has perforated stone windows.

Women are not allowed into the central chamber of the structure. The tomb also has cenotaphs of Ahmed Shahs son and grandson. Opposite the Hajiro and across the main gate lies the Rani-no-Hajiro where the queens of subsequent sultans were buried.

 

 

 

 

Heritage Walk

The best way to learn about a city is through friends who know the place, but here in Ahmedabad, you can get to know the city and its intricacies even as a stranger. You have at least two options for taking a guided Heritage Walk around the old city of Ahmedabad.

One conducted by the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation, with guides who volunteer their precious time for this preservation effort. The tour begins at 8am at the Swaminarayan Mandir in Kalupur with a slideshow. It takes you through various pols, havelis, Hindu and Jain temples, various sites including the famous Manek Chowk, and ends at the soulful Jama Masjid at the center of the city at 10:30am.

 

 

Other Buidlings

Tambekar Wada:
Tambekar Wada, a 4-storey haveli, the residence of the Diwan of Vadodara acquired by the Archeological Survey of India, is famous for its wall paintings from the 19th century Maratha tradition depicting scenes from the Mahabharata, Lord Krishna's life and from the Anglo-Maratha war.

Kirti Mandir:
Kirti Mandir was the royal mausoleum of the Gaekwads, commissioned by Maharaja Sayajirao on his 75th birthday for his ancestors with a bronze sun, moon, earth and the map of India atop its spire. It is known for its murals by Nandlal Bose, a famous painter from Tagore's Shantiniketan, with scenes from the Mahabharata and of Mirabai's life.

Qutbuddin Hajira:
Qutbuddin Hajira is a tomb over the grave of Qutbuddin Muhammed Khan, one of Mughal Emperor Akbar's generals and later the local governor, built in 1586 and now the most significant Mughal monument in the area. Its quiet charm is enhanced by an old stepwell nearby.

Nyaya Mandir:
Nyaya Mandir, “Temple of Justice”, is an ancient building now used as the district sessions court.
 

 

Rani no Hajiro

On the street leading to the Queen’s (Rani no) tomb (hajiro), where the female members of the royal family were buried, is now a colorful market for ‘ladies’ goods’, crowded with women’s clothing and other items. It lies to the east of Manek Chowk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dabhoi Fort

A visit to Dabhoi Fort, located in Gujarat, India, informs a tourist that the fort is of immense value, both historically and beauty wise and the fort happens to be located near Darbhavati town, which is further situated in the Gujarat. 

Dabhoi Fort, located in Gujarat, is attributed to Siddharaj Jaisinh and the architectural style and the iconography present it is of immense value and it is apparent that it was conceived in the same time period as the forts of the order of Rudra Mahalaya and Zinzuwada Fort located in Gujarat, India.

Dabhoi Fort is mentioned in various historical texts and is based on the lines of the various shastri traditions, which are mentioned in the various Vastu scriptures and tomes of ancient India. Dabhoi Fort also happens to be the birthplace of the great and popular Gujarati poet, known as Raskavi Dayaram in Gujarat, India. Then, this poet Raskavi Dayaram has composed various garbis which are the Gujarati devotional songs.

Kusum Vilas Palace

Kusum Vilas Palace blends the architectural style found in Champaner, elevators and modern functional requirements. Kusum Vilas Palace is one of the picturesque and historically important Gujarat forts and palaces.

Kusum Vilas Palace, offers a golden opportunity to the tourists to investigate and explore the historical recesses of Gujarat, located in India. Kusum Vilas Palace is an equally picturesque, scenic and historically eminent travel and tourist destination located in Chota Udepur, Gujarat, India.

Kusum Vilas Palace along with the Prem Bhawan Palace, are two of the finest examples of twentieth century, Palace architecture in Gujarat, located in India.

It was constructed very systematically by one of the most famous architectural firms of Mumbai, known as Bhatkar and Bhatkar, and in the early twenties of this century. The central concept of Kusum Vilas Palace,hovered around the idea of architecture found in Champaner with an intelligent admixture of elevators and modern functional requirements to add to the attraction of this travel destination located in Gujarat, India.

The carved pilasters, a large porch and an attendant large and imposing façade along with an attractive dome, lend majesty and style to the Kusum Vilas Palace, situated in Gujarat, India.

 

Lakhota palace and Museum

Lakhota Fort is Jamnagar's museum and its terraces display a fine collection of sculptures that span the period from the 9th to 18th century. The Kotha Bastion is Jamnagar's arsenal. One of the most interesting sights is the old well, from which water can be drawn by blowing into a hole on the floor.

On an island in the center of the lake stands the circular Lakhota tower, built for drought relief on orders from Jam Ranmalji after the failed monsoons in 1834, 1839 and 1846 made it difficult for the people of the city to find food and resources. Originally designed as a fort such that soldiers posted around it could fend off an invading enemy army with the lake acting as a moat, the tower known as Lakhota Palace now houses the Lakhota Museum.

The collection includes artifacts spanning from 9th to 18th century, pottery from medieval villages nearby and the skeleton of a whale. The very first thing you see on entry, however, before the historical and archaeological information, is the guardroom with muskets, swords and powder flasks, reminding you of the structure’s original purpose and proving the martial readiness of the state at the time. The walls of the museum are also covered in frescoes depicting various battles fought by the Jadeja Rajputs. The fort is connected to the banks by two causeways, but is only accessible from the north side.

The museum hours are from 10:30am-2pm and 2:30pm-5:30pm. Entry fees for the Indians is Rs.2/- and for Foreigners is Rs.50/-.
 

 

Naulakha Palace

The oldest extant palace in Gondal, the 17th Century Naulakha palace is a festival of stone carvings with exquisite Jarokha balconies, a fabulous pillared stud courtyard, delicately carved arches and a unique spiral staircase.

One of the oldest and most beautiful of Gondal palaces, the Navlakha palace complex (17th century), is situated on a river bank, on a grand masonary base, rising to the monumental scale of at least 30 meter above the river bed. The palace is approached by the high gateway with the clock tower from the town side. The entrance leads to a huge open space with administrate blocks on height and a grand stairfcase with balustrade on the extreme left corner leading to the intricately carved pavilions on the open terrace. The grand Darbar Hall, with a series of huge windows opening onto a long balcony supported by intricately carved brackets, overlooks the river. Darbar Hall, with a series of huge windows opening onto a long balcony supported by intricately carved brackets, overlooks the river. Darbar Hall has large chandeliers, stuffed panthers, gilt wooden furniture and anitique Belgian mirrors. The private palace museum displays artifacts, gifts and messages received by Sir Bhagwatsinhji, on his 50th birthday.

The private palace museum has an impressive display of silver caskets which carried messages and gifts for Maharajah Bhagwat Sinhji on hills silver jubilee as ruler of Gondal, one of the many golden caskets received by him on his 50th anniversary, the weighing scales on which he was measured against silver and gold on the respective anniversaries, and princely relics.

 

 

Pawagadh Fort

Pawagadh Fort of Gujarat is a popular tourist spot of the city. It represents the rich cultural heritage of the city of Gujarat. The exquisite architecture of the fort attracts tourists in large numbers from various corners of the country and abroad.

Pawagadh Fort at Gujarat stands out as an exemplary historical monument which is famous for its architectural expertise. Pawagadh is equally important to Hindus and Jains of the place.

Pawagadh Fort is situated atop a hill with the hills near Pawagadh being constituted by a rocky terrain and the fort came as a later addition to the hill. Pawagadh Fort is easily accessible from the cities of Vadodara and Ahmedabad. People coming to Pawagadh Fort, come to consider it as an ideal picnic spot for the people of Vadodara and Ahmedabad.

Pawagadh Fort in Gujarat is easily accessible from the cities of Vadodara and Ahmedabad. Mumbai, Delhi and major cities of India are connected to Ahmedabad by air. Ahmedabad is also linked to Muscat, London, and New York. The airport lies 10 kilometer to the northeast of Ahmedabad. Auto rickshaws, taxis, rented cars, and tourist buses are basic means of communication.

Must-sees in Pawagadh Fort:

The structure of Makai Kota, where the rulers of Pawagadh stored their grains
The ruins of Patai Rawal Palace
Naulakha Kotha mansion

Sultan Muhammad Beghada, an Indian ruler, contemplated that it would not be easy to vanquish the fortifications of Pawagadh Fort. Hence, he built a city near Pawagadh Fort, which is now known as Champaner. He did so to siege Pawagadh Fort.

 

The Lakshmi Vilas Palace

Maharaja Sayajirao III commissioned Major Charles Mant (also known as 'Mad' Mant for his eccentric work) to build the Lakshmi Vilas Palace, which was later finished by R.F. Chisolm.

It was built in the Indo-Saracenic tradition, with an eclectic mix of Indian, Islamic, and European elements, as if, as Philip Ward writes, “an architectural Paul Klee had taken solid lines for a walk”. The imposingly impressive interior is full of multi-colored marble, mosaic tile and various works of art and the courtyards of palms and fountains have arched entrance-ways big enough for “the tallest elephant with the largest howdah on his back” to pass through, as reported by Edward Weeden, one of the earliest Europeans to stay in the palace. The palace grounds include a golf course and Sayajirao's personal museum, containing, among other displays, original paintings by Raja Ravi Varma. While less impressive than the Vadodara Museum, this one is still worth a brief visit.

The museum is open from 10:30am - 5:30pm and the entrance fee is Rs. 25/- for Indians and Rs. 100/- for Foreigners.

The palace is open from 11am - 5pm and entrance fee is Rs.100/-. To view the palace you must ask for a permit from the Maharaja’s secretary in the palace office or call +91 265 242 6372. Both palace and museum are closed on Mondays.

The Nazarbaugh Palace

Built in the old classical style in 1721 by Maharaja Malhar Rao, the Nazar Bagh Palace is a three storey building with arcaded verandahs. It was used on ceremonial occasions by the ruling Gaekwads. The palace houses the heirlooms of the royal family including a solid gold and solid silver gun, the former weighs over 127kg (180lbs) and is drawn by a team of white bullocks on ceremonial occasions.

Nazarbaugh Palace was once a royal guesthouse, and now houses royal family heirlooms for public viewing (though the building is a little dilapidated). The former royal residence at Pratap Vilas Palace, now converted into the Railway Staff college, has an free entry, but you must ask for permission from the authorities who can also arrange a guided tour from 9am - 6pm.

 

Vijay Vilas Palace

Built in 1929 by Rao Vijayrajji, this palace is very well-maintained, and often the scene of filming for Bollywood productions. It was built of red sandstone in the Rajput style, with a main central dome, Bengal domes at the sides, bastions at the corner, and colored glass windows. The balcony at the top affords a superb view of the surrounding area, and the king's tomb can also be seen.

The palace is 7 km from the center of town, open every day from 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm. Entry is Rs.20/-, photography costs Rs.50/-, and entering with a private vehicle is Rs.10/-.

 

 

 

 

Adi-Kadi Vav & Navghan Kuwo

These two stepwells inside Uparkot, are highly unusual forms of stepwells, very different from wells in other parts of Gujarat. Most wells are dug through various kinds of subsoils and rock layers, and stone columns, floors, stairs and walls are built much like they would be in above-ground construction.

In the case of these two, the spaces of the well itself were carved out of stone, leaving the structure of the well (the columns, the walls, etc.) out of the original rock. This means no structural construction is done, so the whole structure of the well is hewn out of a single stone.

Navghan Kuwo, just a few years shy of being a thousand years old (it was apparently built in 1026 AD, though some accounts say it is much older), is partly hewn out of soft rock and partly built up structurally like other wells. The stairs that lead down 52 m (170 ft.) to the water level spiral around the well shaft itself, which is also very uncommon. The water from Navghan Kuwo is what allowed Uparkot to withstand many long sieges.

Adi-kadi Vav, built in the 15th century, is carved entirely out of hard rock. A narrow flight of 120 stairs cuts down through the stone to meet the well shaft deep in the stone. Two different legends claim to explain the name of the well. One says that the king ordered a stepwell to be built and workers excavated down into this hard stone, but no water was found. The royal priest said that water would only be found if two unmarried girls were sacrificed. Adi and Kadi were the unlucky ones chosen for this and after their sacrifice, water was found. The other story, less fantastic but probably more likely, claims that Adi and Kadi were the names of the royal servant girls who fetched water from the well every day. Either way, people still hang cloth and bangles on a tree nearby in their memory.

Dada Harir Vav

In the quiet neighborhood of Asarwa village, northeast of the walled, tucked away between a sleepy residential area and the coal yards of Ahmedabad on a little side street, you will find Dada Harir Vav. At ground level you may not see much, but as you step up to the top of the stairs, you suddenly see a deep cascade of stairs and columns plunging down several stories, with shafts of light falling on beautiful carvings and birds and bats flitting in and out of the shadowy corners.

Built around 500 years ago by Sultan Bai Harir, this stepwell is like others around Gujarat, with elaborate craftsmanship and construction built underground to provide access to a permanent source of water. For many years stepwells like this one provided most of the water for the city during the long dry seasons. While the water at the bottom is now dirty, it is easy to appreciate how valuable and sacred such a well was when it was built. On the walls as you descend, you will find carvings of all type, including some in Sanskrit as well as in Arabic script.

The well is best visited in the late morning when light penetrates down the shaft. To reach the site, it is best to find an autorickshaw driver who knows the place to take you there. Buses come nearby, but then it can be quite roundabout to find it on foot.

 

Rani Ni Vav

Rani Ni Vav is the oldest and the grandest stepwell in the state of Gujarat. It is situated at Patan and is believed to have been built during 1022 to 1063 AD. The construction was completed by the widowed queen Udayamati.

She was the wife of King Bhimdev I, son of Mularaja, the founder of the Solanki dynasty of Anahilwada Pattan. It is a richly sculptured monument and a major tourist spot in Patan. The size of the Rani Ni Vav is so huge that the tourists appear to be ants climbing an anthill.

Due to silting, a major portion of the well has deteriorated. There were some renovation exercises in 1980, which have restored some of the ancient glory of the place. One of its pillars is so beautifully carved, that it reminds one of the ancient charm of the monument. It appears the well is made up of bricks. There is small gateway just below the last step of the Rani Ni Vav well. The gateway opens into a 30 km tunnel which leads to the nearby town of Siddhpur. This was used by the King to escape in the times of defeat.

The tunnel has now been blocked by stones and mud to avoid any mishap. There are 7 storeys in the step-well and the steps are intricately carved. There are sculptures of the avatars of the Hindu Gods, Jain Gurus, Goddesses, Apsaras, etc. Most of the sculptures are in devotion to Lord Vishnu. It is said that around 60 years back there were Ayurvedic plants near the well which possessed medicinal properties. Due to this, the water of the well also gained curative powers capable of healing viral disease, fever, etc.

Also, there were Chambers built in the Rani Ni Vav. Here, the royal families rested in the summer months. The water from the well acted as the natural air conditioner by decreasing the heat and making the breeze cool. The archaeologists are thinking of excavating the nearby area. It is believed that there must be palaces and royal residences in the vicinity, which used the well as the medium for air cooling.

The Adalaj Stepwell

Set in the quiet village of Adalaj, this vav has served as a resting place for hundreds of years for many pilgrims and caravans along their trade routes.

Built in 1499 by Queen Rudabai, wife of the Vaghela chief, Veersinh, this five-storey stepwell was not just a cultural and utilitarian space, but also a spiritual refuge. It is believed that villagers would come everyday in the morning to fill water, offer prayers to the deities carved into the walls and interact with each other in the cool shade of the vav. There is an opening in the ceilings above the landing which allows the light and air to enter the octagonal well. However, direct sunlight does not touch the flight of steps or landings except for a brief period at noon. Hence some researchers say that the atmosphere inside the well is six degrees cooler than the outside.

Another remarkable feature of this stepwell is that out of the many stepwells in Gujarat, it is the only one with three entrance stairs. All three stairs meet at the first storey, underground in a huge square platform, which has an octagonal opening on top. The vav is a spectacular example of Indo-Islamic architecture and design. The harmonious play of intricate Islamic floral patterns seamlessly fusing into Hindu and Jain symbolism embody the culture and ethos of those times. All the walls carved by ornamentation, mythological scenes along with everyday scenes of women churning buttermilk, dancers accompanied by musicians, women adorning themselves and a king sitting on a stool. Fascinating to many visitors is the Ami Khumbor (a pot that contains the water of life) and the Kalp Vriksha (a tree of life) carved out of a single slab of stone. There is a belief that the small frieze of navagraha (nine-planets) towards the edge of the well protects the monument from evil spirits.